Tofu Wasn’t What I Expected

The day I almost skipped class and instead ended up falling in love with a jiggly, custardy block of soy.

by Marisa Baggett

I almost skipped class that day.

“October 14, 2003: Tofu Day.” The words stared up at me from the syllabus.

So far, I had enjoyed our deep dives into the fundamentals of Japanese cuisine at sushi school. Each lesson helped me grasp new nuances and helped keep me fed as my money ran dangerously low. But despite my growling stomach, nothing felt appetizing about a day dedicated to tofu.

As had become my ritual for sushi school, I devoured the reading assignment. I knew tofu so well I could’ve recited its origin story, texture categories, and the exact grammatical moment when tofu becomes dofu*. I knew practically everything. Except one tiny thing. I didn’t know how it tasted.

I didn’t grow up eating tofu. If it was even available in our grocery store, it never made its way into our cart. In small-town Mississippi, tofu wasn’t something you brought up in polite Southern food society. It was something you heard about on TV, usually alongside some jibber jabber about sprouts and wheatgrass.

I flipped through our textbook, Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art by Shizuo Tsuji, hoping to find some glimmer of hope. I reread the recipe for Agedashi Dofu. Tsuji-san wrote: “The ingredients are very simple and there is no new twist to the deep-frying technique, but the flavor is sophisticated.”

That told me nothing.

In class, I watched my classmates light up as Sensei placed dishes in front of us. Some pointed eagerly, recognizing each one with affection. Then came the part I dreaded: a cube of plain tofu, placed in my palm. Everyone else popped it in their mouths without hesitation. I hesitated. Maybe too long, because suddenly, all eyes were on me.

Would it be rubbery? Smell weird? Taste like a sponge?
I closed my eyes and prayed: Please don’t let me gag.

And then… it melted. Creamy, delicate, luscious. Mostly flavorless and quiet. Softly confident. And everything I’d assumed about tofu collapsed in a single bite.

As we moved through each dish, I was struck by how the ingredients supported the tofu instead of disguising it. This wasn’t tofu trying to be anything else. It was tofu for the sake of tofu and that was a very good thing. When we finally reached Agedashi Dofu, it blew me away. The crispy crust. The silky center. The light broth sliding across the tofu ever so delicately. Ginger. Scallions. Simplicity. Sophistication.

I came to class that day prepared to endure tofu, not enjoy it. But what I learned was that we often resist simplicity. We flavor, disguise, and twist things until they’re unrecognizable out of fear that simple won’t be enough.

But sometimes, food doesn’t need reinvention. Sometimes, it just needs to be itself.

*The transition from "tofu" to "dofu" happens when tofu is part of a compound word.


Ingredient Spotlight: Silken Tofu

Of all the tofu varieties, silken tofu shines brightest for me in texture, flavor, and versatility. It’s smooth, custardy, and equally at home in a bowl of miso soup or folded into dessert. But honestly I often eat it straight from the package with a splash of soy sauce and toasted sesame oil.

Getting silken tofu out of its package in one piece can feel like a delicate operation. For some dishes, that softness is exactly what makes it perfect. For others, pressing it adds a bit of much needed structure. And when adding it to soup, the best way to keep it intact is to skip the cutting board altogether. Just hold the block in one hand and slice directly into the pot or bowl with a sharp knife. The less you handle it, the better.

In the U.S., silken tofu is often sold in shelf-stable boxes, making it easy to keep on hand for whenever inspiration strikes. Unlike the water-packed tofu in the refrigerated section, these boxes don’t need refrigeration until opened—just one more reason silken tofu is my go-to.

Silken Tofu Tips & Uses:

  • For soups or cold dishes: Use straight from the package, no pressing needed.

  • For frying (like Agedashi Dofu): Gently press with a towel for 10–15 minutes.

  • For baking: ¼ cup blended silken tofu = 1 egg. Great for cakes or pancakes.

Agedashi Dofu

Agedashi Dofu* might seem like a humble dish, but its simplicity is what makes it special. A barely there, crispy crust, a silky interior, a light dashi-based sauce. Each plays a part in creating the perfect balance.

It’s the kind of dish that embodies Japanese culinary philosophy, where texture and subtle seasoning create a sophisticated end result. The beauty of Agedashi Dofu is that it’s neither complicated nor showy, but somehow, it never fails to feel like something special.

Agedashi Dofu is a delicious study in contrast. The key to getting it just right? Start with high-quality silken tofu. If you're using shelf-stable tofu, you're already ahead of the game as it’s closer to the perfect frying temperature right out of the box. If using refrigerated tofu, let it come to room temperature before frying so that first bite is warm all the way through, not cold in the center.

This recipe technically serves four as a light appetizer. But who are we kidding? I can (and will) enjoy the entire thing myself.

Ingredients

  • One 12.3 oz package silken tofu

  • 4 Tablespoons potato starch

  • High heat oil for frying

  • ½ cup mushroom dashi or low sodium vegetable stock

  • 3 Tablespoons soy sauce

  • 3 Tablespoons mirin or sweet sherry

  • 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger root

  • Green onions, chopped

Directions

1. Remove tofu from package liquid. Sandwich between several layers of paper towels on a flat surface. Top with a flat plate and weigh down with 1 canned item. Allow tofu to drain 15 minutes.

2. Heat about 1 inch oil in a skillet to 340 degrees F.

3. Combine dashi or stock, soy sauce and mirin in a small saucepan. Heat until mixture comes near to a boil. Keep liquid at a simmer.

4. Remove tofu from paper towels and pat dry. Cut into 4 even blocks. Dredge tofu pieces in potato starch making sure that all edges are covered completely.

5. Fry tofu in oil. Turn pieces to fry evenly fry on all sides. When tofu is crispy and lightly browned all over, about 2 minutes per side, place each cube onto individual serving dishes with rounded edges.

6. To serve, spoon 2 ½ tablespoons of the warm dashi mixture around the bottom of each piece. Top each tofu block with ½ teaspoon fresh ginger root and chopped scallions.

Originally published in Dear Sensei
”Tofu Wasn’t What I Expected”  February, 2025

Silken tofu resting on a kitchen towel next to boxes of shelf-stable tofu

Agedashi dofu in warm broth topped with grated ginger and chopped scallions
Close-up of agedashi tofu with crisp exterior and delicate toppings in soy-based sauce